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From Brooklyn, with love

Café 2825 • 2825 Atlantic Ave., Atlantic City • 609-344-6913

by Sharon Harris-Zlotnick

From Brooklyn, with love

In 1986, Joseph Lautato told his parents he wanted to leave their Brooklyn neighborhood to open a restaurant in Atlantic City.

The Lautatos reacted with disbelief. Father Sonny was retired from the New York Police Department. Mother Rose had worked in the school system. They were contemplating second careers, but never dreamed of starting them more than 100 miles away.

They did, and now they’re glad. Through 22 years of successes and challenges, Café 2825 has become a sophisticated boutique restaurant that has earned the loyalty of the locals. Says Lautato, “I turn away more people in the summer than I serve. I measure success by my winter customers, not the summer ones.”

He still returns to the old neighborhood. Every Sunday and Monday for the past two decades, Lautato has made the trek to Brooklyn to buy several days’ worth of cheeses, baked goods, olives and cured meats from specialty suppliers. All are unavailable in the Atlantic City area.

“I pack my car with special food items and bring them back to the shore,” he says. “I can offer my diners wonderful dining, using items not found here.” Café 2825 changes its menu twice a year, and Lautato adds numerous wines. Many are displayed throughout the dining room. “I try to keep the wine list exciting. Customers are more wine-savvy, and they like to look at the labels and the year,” he says.

Café 2825 specializes in unusual dishes and preparation. Entrée prices range from $18 to $40 and include two side dishes. Pastas may be ordered as appetizers. There are always three fishes, served whole and filleted at the table. Lautato aims to showcase Mediterranean fishes like Branzino and Orata, and includes Dover Sole as a standard selection.

Other favorites are the involtini, or rolled and stuffed platters. The chef frequently cooks on the bone for maximum flavor. “The bone marrow bleeds into the meat for added taste, but cooking that way does take longer,” says Lautato. Desserts—some homemade and others from New York—are available for $8. These include sorbets, gelatos, Italian cheesecake with ricotta cheese and tiramisu.

The 55-seat dining room is decorated in earth tones. Chairs are dark wood with gold mesh seat cushions. The rich wood of the flooring and the bar complement the paneling and textured faux paint on the walls. Classic artwork in heavy gold frames is accented by soft lighting. Tables are set with all-white linens.

Available for both daytime and evening private functions, Café 2825 accommodates sit-down luncheon or dinner parties up to 60. Hours: 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday Reservations are recommended. Major credit cards accepted. Street and lot parking available.

Chef's Corner

Pork Valdostano

Tender pork chop stuffed with spinach, Italian suasage and mozzarella, finished with herb marsala, topped with a medley of mushrooms

Ingredients:

 8 oz. pork chop

3 oz. spinach

2 oz. diced Italian suasage

1 oz. slice of mozzarella

pinch of goat cheese (optional)

flour, egg, seasoned bread crumbs

Marsala Wine Sauce:

 3 oz. Marsala wine

2 oz. veal stock

pinch of whole butter

dab of marinara sauce

pinch of oregano and basil

3 to 4 sliced mushrooms

To Prepare:

Saute diced Italian sausage in a little oil until cooked and set aside. In same pan, saute spinach until wilted; do not overcook.

Flatten pork chop gently until approximately 1/8 inch thick (do not over-tenderize). Place mozzarella slice on the pork chop, then spinach, then sausage. A sprinkle of goat cheese can also be added for extra flavor. Fold the pork chop over and tuck near bone (do not roll, a simple tuck will do). Dip chop in flour, egg and bread crumb until lightly coated. Pan sear chop in oil until golden brown, approximately 2 minutes each side. Finish by baking in 350-degree oven for 10 to 12 minutes.

For Marsala sauce, reduce wine until alcohol is cooked out, add veal stock, a dab of marinara (for color), oregano, basil and butter. Cook a few minutes on high heat. Saute mushrooms in butter in seperate pan, add to sauce. Top chop with mushrooms and sauce and serve.

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