Chef Joel Dincher has collected his share of hosannas. He’s the guy who turned the Brighton Steak House at the old Sands into Zagat’s 2006 Top Jersey Steakhouse, and presided over the Palm Restaurant at the Quarter. Most recently, he ran the Moonfish Grill in Cape May.

Topping off his trophy case, Dincher is also a two-time Iron Chef title-holder.

Lucky for us, he’s now back in Atlantic City at the city’s first “gastropub,” Megan’s Good Grub & Pub, at Indiana and the Boardwalk. Under Dincher’s artful direction, the dining is second to none.

The gastropub phenomenon began in Great Britain. Though the Brits are hardly known for their cuisine (haggis, anyone?), pub life in the soggy isles is legendary. In 1991, a London public house decided to put the emphasis on fine food.

“The idea is to keep the social atmosphere, the pub feeling, and add great food,” says Dincher. “The trend is sweeping big cities—D.C., New York, Philadelphia—so I took it and ran with it.”

Pinnacle Entertainment owns the storefront, once the site of Opa restaurant; the opening of Megan’s Good Grub & Pub is seen as part of the company’s ongoing commitment to Atlantic City.

But let’s get down to the food. Megan’s is all about “comfort-food favorites—meat loaf and mashed potatoes, pork chops, burgers—but with surprising gourmet twists,” says Pinnacle Director of Communications Carmen Gonzales.

Instead of the classic BLT, Dincher came up with the DLT—a duck confit livened with a smoky raspberry mayo and topped with butter lettuce, Roma tomato and baby brioche. Think bar patrons don’t eat duck? Think again. The unorthodox sandwich has become a top seller.

Instead of the same-old chicken wings, Dincher offers crispy shank-cut pork wings, juicy and plump, with celery and a piquant Buffalo-Roquefort fondue.

Megan’s “Small Grub” menu offers tapas-sized servings of, among other items, country potato pancakes, Maine lobster roll, Sloppy Joes, and a zingy Hawaiian poke-style tartare of both tuna and salmon, served with creamy avocado slices and grilled pineapple in a brown sugar soy vinaigrette. At $6 to $17, some of these dishes are big enough to share, so order a few and pass them around.

“Big Grub” entrees include something to please everyone. The pan-roasted Atlantic salmon was a hit with my companions, the fish tender and just right alongside a bacon and white bean ragout in dilled lemon-garlic butter ($19). Another favorite was pork chops in a miso and hard cider glaze ($22). Instead of applesauce, Dincher adds a side of apple-ginger slaw made with both Granny Smith and Red Delicious apples.

“It’s the same flavor profile, but a different execution,” Dincher says. “It’s one part math, one part chemistry… I don’t do anything normal.” The pork chops are paired with a seriously yummy mac and cheese made with parmesan, asiago and cheddar.

The hands-down Small Grub favorite at our table was Shrimp and Grits ($13), a delectable Southern-inspired plate piled high with roasted corn, grilled shrimp and crayfish with Creole chili oil on a bed of sharp cheddar grits (just try to find grits anywhere else in town). We also enjoyed the American Kobe meatloaf ($21) with mashed potatoes, braised baby carrots and a rich, dark Amish stout gravy.

Starters include house-roasted cashews (made with aromatic sea salt) and crunchy, super-skinny pub fries (you’ll grab them by the handful). As a lifelong connoisseur of pickles, I was impressed by Megan’s own dills, which are made and cured in-house. Who does that anymore?

The atmosphere at Megan’s is comfy and welcoming, with deep cranberry walls, hatbox lamp shades and retro accents—Barbie dolls, ’60s-era LPs, an autographed folk guitar, vintage Life magazines, collectible salt and pepper shakers, and black and white photos of the namesake “Megan” and her kin. Upholstered armchairs are grouped around tables covered both with white tablecloths and lengths of butcher-block paper. (Hint: It’s probably OK to be a little messy at Megan’s house.)

An upstairs lounge is being refurbished for meetings and private parties. Of course, the view is breathtaking.

“Outside the casinos,” Dincher says, “I have the hottest room in Atlantic City.” Not to mention one of the most entertaining, innovative and affordable menus. Welcome back, Chef Joel.

Chef's Corner

Chef Joel Dincher’s Southern Shrimp & Grits with Chili Oil

2 cups instant grits
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
1/2 cup diced jumbo shrimp
1/4 crawfish tail meat
2 ears Jersey corn on the cob
1 red bell pepper
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tsp. crushed chili flakes
shredded sharp cheddar
Salt & crushed pepper to taste
Roast corn in 400-degree oven until golden brown (about 10-12 minutes). Let cool and cut off cob. In a medium-sized pot bring butter, 4 cups water and a pinch of salt and pepper to boil. Cut bell pepper into 1/4 inch cubes. Simmer chili flakes in olive oil for 6 minutes on medium heat. Strain, let cool and place into a squeeze bottle.

Add grits to boiling water, simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 5 minutes. Fold in cheddar and roasted corn with rubber spatula, spoon into large pasta bowl.

Heat sautè pan on high for 30 seconds and add 1 tbsp. olive oil. Sautè shrimp, crawfish and red pepper until shrimp are fully cooked (about 3-4 minutes). Place over grits and drizzle entire dish with chili oil. Garnish with sprig of corn shoots or snow pea shoots.

Comments(1):

1. "the opening of Megan’s Good Grub & Pub is seen as part of the company’s ongoing commitment to Atlantic City" LETS HOPE SO!

   Monday, July 06, 2009 Timothy