To say that Stephen Starr’s Buddakan provides a cinematic dining experience is an understatement.

Its Chinese village motif, complete with scarlet pagoda arches, red velvet circular booths and a 10-foot golden Buddha, makes the restaurant at the Pier Shops at Caesars seem like a trip to another place, time and culture—or the movie version thereof. (In fact, New York’s Buddakan was featured in the first Sex and the City movie, as the site of Carrie Bradshaw’s engagement party, and the restaurant will also appear in an upcoming episode of Gossip Girl. The flagship restaurant is in Philadelphia.)

The Atlantic City location is just as spectacular, and luckily, the food is equal to the décor. Under the direction of Executive Chef Darrell Raymond, Buddakan offers a pan-Asian menu pared to its essence. Artfully simple and free of frou-frou embellishments, it is worthy of its consistent 5-star reputation.

“My cooking philosophy is very simple,” Raymond says. “Food should never be masked; the natural flavor of a dish should speak for itself.”

And it does. From the Cantonese lobster to the wasabi-crusted filet mignon, from the wok cashew chicken to the Asian barbecued pork, each dish is prepared with masterful simplicity and presented like a gift.

We started with the Sweet and Crispy Shrimp ($24). Each element of the dish was exciting, unexpected, and yet, once you sampled it, inevitable: the sweetness of the shrimp was countered by the sharpness of slivered chili peppers, which were set off by the crunch of candied walnuts (the walnuts’ smoky-sweet flavor was just heavenly). Paired with radish salad in a citrus dressing, this was a great dish to share.

We followed that with Grilled Lamb Chops ($33), barely pink in the center, unadorned, and prepared just right. Served with cubed Chinese eggplant in garlic sauce and a Thai basil pesto, this hearty dish would be perfect for a cool autumn evening.

Raymond, soft-spoken and Brook-lyn-born, became interested in Asian cuisine as a boy, watching the PBS show Yan Can Cook with Martin Yan. He enjoys fusing regional Asian foods—“Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Taiwanese”—and taking a “plain Jane” approach in his cuisine. He starts with a simple foundation (like the straightforward lamb chops) and layers on bursts of complementary tastes.

Popular dishes on the menu include the edamame ravioli ($14) in a truffled sauterne shallot broth; the pan-seared Chilean sea bass ($35) with haricots verts and butternut squash; and crab-fried rice ($16) with “clouds of wok-scrambled eggs.” Raymond also recommends the sesame-poached tuna ($30), a spicy tartar with Japanese sweet potatoes.

Buddakan’s reputation is well established. Named one of America’s Top 50 Restaurants by Travel & Leisure magazine and Top Restaurant for Fun by Gourmet, its mystic interior and ethereal ambience lend well to parties (the center table, under the Buddha’s gaze, seats 24, and the whole restaurant can host 300 for meetings and private gatherings).

By all means, don’t skip dessert. The list includes Zen-ful Donuts ($8) with sweet cream filling and banana and chocolate sauces for dipping; the Chocolate Pagoda ($9), a confection of chocolate mocha chip ice cream, frozen mousse and hazelnut praline; and Crying Chocolate ($8), with coffee ice cream, caramel and white chocolate ganache. At the risk of repeating ourselves—heavenly.

Buddakan
The Pier Shops at Caesars

609-674-0100 - For parties, call Cara Rice at 609-344-3615

COOK'S CORNER

Crispy Sweet Shrimp with Radish Salad

This modern appetizer uses Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise, which is richer, tangier and sweeter than American mayonnaise. It can be found in most Asian grocery stores.

INGREDIENTS:
5 U-12 Shrimp
5 candied walnuts
5 pieces sliced finger chilis

SAUCE FOR SHRIMP:
17.6 oz. Kewpie mayonnaise
Juice of 2 lemons
Juice of 1 lime
3 oz. pineapple juice
6 oz. condensed milk
1/2 tbsp. salt
1 tbsp. sugar
11 oz. soy oil

FOR SALAD:
6 lime segments
micro celery
1 radish, julienned
Juice of 1 lime
Juice of 1 lemon , Juice of 1 orange, 4 oz. soy oil, 1 tbsp. sugar, pinch of salt and pepper. Combine all ingredients except lime segments and emulsify in food processor. Lightly toss on salad.

CANDIED WALNUTS: 2 cups sugar, 1 cup water, 2 tbsp. honey
• Blanch walnuts in boiling water. Place into simple syrup (above ingredients boiled and let to cool) and lightly glaze. Dry at room temperature. Fry in 350-degree oil until dark.

Combine mayonnaise, condensed milk, sugar and salt and blend in food processor. Gradually add soy oil to emulsify. Add lime and lemon juices to taste. Add pineapple juice last, for a thicker consistency.

Coat shrimp in corn starch and fry until crispy and golden. Coat with mayonnaise. Place 5 dots of mayonnaise on plate, place shrimp on top. Top each shrimp with lime segment and salad. Place a walnut next to each shrimp and a sliced chili on the other side.

Buddakan
The Pier Shops at Caesars
One Atlantic Ocean • 609-674-0100
Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week
For parties, call Cara Rice at 609-344-3615

By Marjorie Preston

Marjorie Preston is a contributing editor of Global Gaming Business magazine and managing editor of Casino Connection Atlantic City.