Against the landscape of early 19th century America, Victorian Cape May emerged as our country's first seaside resort. Vacationers started summering there in the early 1800s, arriving by wagon, stagecoach, sloop and schooner. And over the years, this popular place has played hostess to the likes of John Philip Sousa, P.T. Barnum, General Robert E. Lee and President Ulysses S. Grant. Today's Cape May has been called "a picture postcard of the past," a town of cozy gingerbread cottages and the homes known as Victorian "painted ladies"—reminders of a time when society was so prim and proper that men and women were assigned separate hours to swim in the ocean. Because it's so close to Atlantic City, Cape May is a wonderful day trip. And now that the tourists have gone home, it's an ideal place to visit, with plenty to do even on weekdays in the fall. "Cape May is not just Victorian homes and a shopping mall," said Katie Porter, Communications Coordinator for the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts, a non-profit cultural organization dedicated to the preservation and interpretation of Cape May's Victorian heritage. "You could come here, skip the beach or the homes or the mall, and you won't be bored at all. There are so many activities for all ages and interests." [Action Activities] Bring your bike or rent one in town. Cape May's pancake-flat terrain and picturesque streets combine for a great place for cycling or roller-blading. It's even better in the fall when weather is cooler and traffic is lighter. Explore the drive along the beach or any of the town's quaint streets or venture into the suburbs. The Washington Street Mall, Cape May's signature downtown promenade, does not allow bikes or blades, however. Save this area for a stroll instead. Most of the shops here are privately or family-owned and ice cream parlors, art galleries, and sidewalk cafes abound. This area has been described as a "living Currier & Ives print," no more true than when you see it decorated later in the year for Christmas. In the warm days of September, the beach is still an option in Cape May, and you save the expense of $4 daily beach tags required during summer months. But use caution, as lifeguards are not usually on duty, except on certain beaches in the first weeks of September. But you don't need the beach to enjoy the water in Cape May. Whale and dolphin watching are popular pastimes. The Cape May Whale Watcher (www.capemaywhalewatcher.com) sails from March through December and guarantees sightings. The Cape May Whale and Research Center (www.capemaywhalewatch.com) makes you part of their unofficial research team and introduces you to two of their favorite dolphins, Tippy and Nubby. In addition, Cape May offers sightseeing cruises around the island that feature tales of local heroes, legends and history. If birds are your passion, Cape May offers some of the finest bird watching in the East. That's because the Cape May Peninsula is in the middle of a migratory pathway traveled every spring and fall by millions of birds. Bring your binoculars for the view. For more information on the birds you can see, consult the Bird Hotline at 609-898-BIRD. For a bird's eye-view, it's worth a visit to the Cape May Lighthouse, which conveniently sits at the center of a beautiful park, perfect for picnics and outdoor activities. Unlike the New England lighthouses perched atop rocky cliffs, the Cape May Lighthouse had to be built tall enough to be seen at sea. It stretches 157 feet and you can climb it to the top. Admission is $5 for adults and $1 for children ages 3-12. [Town Tours] If you're interested in learning more about the town, and especially its Victorian heritage, consider a tour of Cape May. The town offers daily tours for every age, interest, taste and budget. While many of the bed and breakfasts offer free tours, the Emlen Physick Estate is Cape May's only Victorian house museum. Tour the estate and save time for a bite in its tea room. Admission is $8 for adults and $4 for children aged 3-12, and the estate offers special children's tours as well. If you prefer touring by trolley, you can combine the Emlen Physick admission with a trolley tour of the town for a total of $12 for adults and $6 for children—again with special tours designed for children. If you prefer to walk, Cape May offers an abundance of walking tours. Stroll through the Historic District with a knowledgeable guide and learn more about Cape May's Painted Ladies. Choose the Inn and Out tour for a glimpse into the town's famous inns. All Victorians Great and Small features antique and collectible dollhouses. The Romantic Moonlit Trolley Tour is an evening ride through Cape May's gas lit streets, and it focuses on the Victorian traditions of courtship and romance. It also comes with a sweetheart dessert. The Ghost Tour offers a spooky take on the historic town, based on Craig McManus' writings about ghostly appearances at various properties. Admission and times vary but most tours are offered year-round through the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts. Consult www.capemaymac.org or call 609-884-5404 or 800-275-4278 for specifics. [Dining & Nightlife] No matter how long you stay in Cape May, it's worthwhile to plan a meal or two here. After all, the New York Times has called Cape May "the restaurant capital of New Jersey" for good reason. "Many people travel here for the gourmet dining, but in reality, Cape May offers a great mix of styles for a small area," Megan Hutton, director of marketing, Cape May Chamber of Commerce. "There's a restaurant for everyone's taste and budget, from first-class gourmet rooms to great pubs and family restaurants." Named after one of Cape May's migratory birds, the Black Duck on Sunset Boulevard serves up Asian and Latin cuisine in a casual setting. White walls, wicker paddle ceiling fans, and hues of black, white and gray offer a serene setting. Just over the canal bridge, Restaurant 1919 is the newest offering from the family who brought us the Water's Edge. Its upscale American fare is first class against a backdrop of island calm accentuated by chartreuse, aqua and ice-blue walls. Among the most famous five-star restaurants are the Ebbitt Room in the Virginia Hotel, the Washington Inn and the Peter Shields Inn. Presentation, cuisine and service are all impeccable. Then there is the Pelican Club, serving up steak and seafood with arguably the best view in town. Oyster Bay also serves up the same stellar fare and is a popular destination. If you're strolling the Washington Mall, stop at Cucina Rose for great Italian fare. And of course, the Lobster House offers consistently great food. Tourists love it in season and locals crowd it during the winter. No matter where you choose to eat, be sure to inquire about the history. Chances are you're the latest in a long lineage of diners who have enjoyed this fine town. After dinner, Cape May offers a quieter nightlife, with many visitors opting for a stroll along the beach Promenade. But two theater companies in town produce shows year-round. Consult the Cape May Stage (www.capemaystage.com) and East Lynne Theatre Company (http://www.eastlynnetheater.org/) for their specific offerings. There are also sometimes concerts or live music at the area's hotels. [Extra Events] Lucky for us, Cape May is not the type of town that caters to a strictly summer crowd. It's a true year-round resort with plenty of events. Among the events this fall are the annual Food and Wine Festival and Victorian Week, both worth the trip. The 9th Annual Food and Wine Festival is scheduled for September 17-22. The festival features five-course gourmet feasts, wine tastings, restaurant tours, seminars, cooking classes and more. The week's activities include a Festival Lobster Bake Luau and a People's Choice Chowder Contest. Convention Hall also hosts a Gourmet Marketplace, a culinary celebration with taste testing and product information from some of Cape May's finest restaurants, shops and other sponsors. Then step back in time for the 33rd Annual Victorian Week, Cape May's signature event scheduled for October 7-16. Hailed as a "Top 100 Event in North America," Victorian Week is an extravaganza that celebrates the Victorian lifestyle. From fashion shows to dances, scavenger hunts, tours and living history exhibits, Victorian Week is packed with fun. Highlights of the week include authentic Victorian feasts, murder mystery dinners, brass band concerts, workshops, lectures, tours, and glass blowing demonstrations. There are many more activities for both events, and most come with an admission charge. For details, call 609- 884-5404 or 1-800-275-4278 or visit. [Parking] Cape May is a city of parking meters, and most of the meters are on, even during the "off" season. Bring your quarters or plan to search for some limited free spots. The good news is that Cape May is so manageable, you're not likely to be any more than a 20-minute walk to the center of town.

By Felicia Lowenstein

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